UNIS Student Exercises, 1999-2000

Location and Duration

Field work as part of UNIS Air-Ice-Ocean course in Templefjord, Svalbard Sep 1997 to Sep 1998 (Representative photographs here)


Background

Early in 1999, I was contacted by Peter Haugan, a professor at the University of Bergen whom I knew from collaborative work during MIZEX. He described a program being developed by a consortium of four Norwegian universities (Bergen, Oslo, Trondheim, Tromsø) that offered a one- or two- semester course in polar science to upper level undergraduate or beginning graduate students, centered in Longyearbyen, Svalbard. Courses were taught in English, with students recruited from all over the world, and emphasized field experience in a cold climate. He asked if I would be willing to give a series of lectures on air-ice-ocean interaction geared to students with a science or engineering background. I would also provide a sampling of the equipment I used for measuring turbulence under ice, and would accompany the students in deploying the instruments in a frozen fjord. I was excited about the prospect, but made one stipulation: that Saundie could accompany me to Longyear, to which Peter gladly agreed.

We flew to Oslo on Mar 9, overnighted there, then on to Longyearbyen on Mar 10, where we were met by Peter and his wife Hildegun. We hit it off well with them and became good friends, meeting up on several occasions in subsequent years, including when they spent a sabbatical year in Seattle.

Saundie, having always been fascinated by the North, was delighted to be this far above the Arctic Circle. I had the weekend to prepare lectures while she had time to explore Longyear. I was able to draw on material I had used in doing short courses I had taught in concert with Max Coon back in the '80s. Nevertheless, there were late nights getting ready for the next set!


Student Exercise

For the student exercise the plan was to pack up a "scooter train" (the Norwegians referred to snowmobiles as 'scooters"), proceed up Adventdalen, then cross over to Templefjorden, where we would set up near the north shore. After quick lessons Saundie acquired her own scooter, and quickly started smelling of 2-cycle exhaust, like most everyone else in Longyear.

Weather was clear and cold on the day we departed for Temple Fjord. The first task was to carve a "hydrohole" in the 60-cm thick ice wide enough to accomodate a turbulence measuring instrument cluster, which was placed a meter below the ice/water interface. A heated tent was placed nearby to accomodate electronics and give people a respite from the cold.

We stayed at a nearby cabin that was one of several shelters that the Sysselmann (equivalent of governor of Svalbard) maintained at several locations in the archipelago. The students were tasked with procuring and cooking meals for the party. Having all gone through firearm training, they were also placed in charge of polar bear safety. All of this took place under the capable direction of Tor-Villy Kangas, our UNIS logistics guide. The students slept wherever they could throw a sleeping bag, but Tor-Villy, Saundie, and I were in a separate "bedroom" separated from the main living area. Away from the wood stove, this proved to be really cold, which interfered with sleep the first night. We soon discovered that by throwing our parkas over our sleeping bags, we could stay confortable.

Poking around behind the cabin, we found old oil barrels marked "Wehrmacht," relics indicating that German troops had occupied this site during WW II. At its location north of the entrance to the Barents Sea and the route to Soviet ports in the Arctic, Svalbard was of strategic importance. German naval forces shelled Longyearbyen, Barentsburg, and Sveagruva. Nearly all of Spitzbergen is National Park territory, and all relics and natural objects are protected.

After getting the science project set up, we joined a number of students for an excursion to the head of the fjord, at the terminus of Temple Glacier. It was a great opporunity to examine where glacial ice encounters a frozen fjord. Near the terminus we encountered tracks and other sign of polar bears, and kept a close watch on the fissures in the ice face. This turned out to have been warranted, since we heard that later that same day, a tour from Longyear had been at the same site, when ice calved off the face with a loud report, and two bears came running out. Polar bears are a fact of life in Svalbard. I have heard that the bear population was larger than human, although I doubt that is still the case. Regardless, it is illegal to leave the town limits without at least one firearm in the party.

I thought the student excursion was an excellent introduction to measuring ocean characteristics from frozen ice. The students seemed enthusiastic and interest in new techniques. For my part, the currents at our location in Temple Fjord were too small to allow valid turbulence measurements with the "Smith rotor" clusters I had used in most previous studies. Indeed, in subsequent turbulence studies, I replaced the mechanical rotor system with modern three-dimensional acoustic current meters capable of accurate measurement at much lower current amplitudes.

The Temple Fjord student exercise gave Saundie a chance to experience Arctic field work without spending a long time away from home. It also gave her a chance for some excellent photography.

Postscript, including the 2000 UNIS exercise

I returned to Longyearbyen the following summer to attend a meeting aimed at fostering US/Norwegian cooperation in polar science. A number of Office of Polar Programs people were there representing NSF. In addition, US congressman James Sensenbrenner attended, along with a high ranking Norwegian official. The upshot was an agreement (MOU?) between American and Norwegian agencies to cooperate in Arctic science. This worked out well for me. I was able to propose and acquire funding for myself and other US scientists (Morison, Wettlaufer) to collaborate with scientists from Norway, Great Britain, and Germany on problems that could be addressed by working in Svalbard fjords. That work was slated to begin in 2001.

The following April, 2000, I was back in Longyear to continue with teaching at UNIS and contributing equipment and expertise with the field work. That year the program was directed by Tor Gammalsrød, another Norwegian researcher whom I knew from previous MIZEX work. The field exercise took place on Van Mijen Fjord, south of Longyear. We stayed at a hut called Pluto, perhaps because it seemed pretty remote. The 2000 field work was later in the spring, which often meant fog. One evening as we were scootering back to Pluto from our measurement site near the center of the fjord, I foolishly got into a race with Tor. What I forgot was that sometime previously an icebreaker had made its way into Svea at the far end of the fjord and left a significant ridge where the ice had refrozen. It was hidden in the fog and I hit it hard, throwing myself and a Russian student off our sled. Fortunately neither she nor I was hurt-- lesson learned the hard way.

There were some very bright students in that group, which made the class sessions rewarding. One, a German student named Dirk Notz, stood out. In addition to the class work, it was obvious that he very much enjoyed the field work. Later, when Dirk was doing graduate work at the University of Hamburg, he contacted me about advising him on a master thesis project, I was glad to agree. Prompted by measurements that Arne Hanson had made at AIDJEX in 1976, Gary Maykut and I had often casually discussed formation and migration of "false bottoms" that form under concavities in the underside of pack ice during summer: it seemed an interesting problem not well understood. I got him invited to spend time at the Polar Science Center in Seattle. There he paired up with Grae Worster, who was on sabbatical from Cambridge University, to investigate ice growth and properties. Using the the concept of differential diffusion of heat and salt at the ice/seawater interface (which Grae and Dirk were investigating), we came up with a rather elegant solution for false bottom formation and migration, in the process demonstrating that it could have significant impact on summer melt of the ice pack.

Dirk continued on to get his PhD with Grae, and has become a true leader in the polar aspects of climate science. He worked with me in several later projects, which was always a pleasure.

During the 2000 visit, I was invited to dinner along with members of the UNIS faculty at the home of an older professor, highly respected for his work in both the Arctic an Antarctic. As part of a lively dinner conversation, I recounted a story about our return to Longyear after six weeks at the CEAREX O-Camp in '89. Our cook at the camp, Tony Parra, had served a memorable lunch to the Sysselman when he had flown out to inspect the station (all of Tony's meals were memorable-- we joked at the time that one could tell when it was lunchtime by the sound of the incoming Twin Otter!). As he got aboard to return, the Sysselman told Tony to call on him if there was anything he needed in Svalbard. When we returned to Longyear weeks later after closing O-Camp, it was Sunday which meant that liquor was not available for sale. This qualified as an emergency, so Tony called, and sure enough, a case of beer was waiting on the porch of the Sysselman's residence. I noted that shortly after I had finished my story, our dinner host had slipped out. When he returned, he was a accompanied by Ulf Sigerness, who had been the helo mechanic at O-Camp. Obviously the story had made its rounds previously. I had got to know Ulf on the ice camp and much enjoyed his company there. Thus in 2000 we reconnected, and in the following years I would often get together with him and his son Fred to catch up over a beer when I was in town. Fred is a scientist studying aurora as a faculty member at UNIS.

I returned to teach during the spring every year through 2014. The experience was always rewarding, fostering many good friendships and connections with the Norwegian polar science community. In addition to Dirk, I advised and mentored three students who obtained Doctorates from the University of Bergen: Anders Sirevaag, Karolina Widell, and Algot Petersen, all of whom also went through the Air-Ice-Ocean course at UNIS.

In more than three decades since my first visit, I saw Longyearbyen evolve from a gritty coal mining community into an academic center drawing talent from all over the world. Surrounded by breathtaking scenery, it has also become a burgeoning tourist destination. Svalbard rates high with me as one of the places in the world I like most.